Why this category is the one that matters
Of everything in your kitchen, the pan is what touches hot food most often. Heat is what mobilises
things — it is the reason a frying pan raises questions a storage box does not.
The whole category argument comes down to one question: what is the cooking surface actually
made of? There are four honest answers.
1. A fluoropolymer coating — PTFE, sold as Teflon
Here is the part the marketing skips. PTFE is itself a PFAS. Not a cousin of one —
a member of the class, under the OECD definition, Maine’s, Minnesota’s and the EPA’s.
The EPA’s own FAQ asks whether fluoropolymers are exempt from its PFAS reporting rule and answers
“No. There is no polymer exemption for this rule.”
Minnesota’s regulator is blunter:
“Teflon™ will be prohibited from use in cookware.”
So “PTFE-free” and “PFAS-free” are different promises, and
“PFOA-free” is nearly meaningless — the eight biggest producers committed to phasing PFOA
out by 2015 under a
voluntary EPA programme.
What is actually known about cooking on it is less dramatic than either side claims. PTFE is inert at
ordinary temperatures; published figures for where it starts breaking down range from about 260°C to
400°C depending what is being measured. The one clear-cut case is birds — Cornell’s
veterinary college
documents three ducks dying within twelve hours
of exposure to a PTFE-coated heat lamp.
The full picture is here.
2. A ceramic sol-gel coating
Genuinely PTFE-free. Also not really ceramic: the
American Ceramic Society
describes it as silica, metal oxides and binders sprayed on aluminium and fired —
“quasi-ceramic”. The catch is not what is in it, it is that the recipe is proprietary, so
nobody outside the factory can check. More here.
3. Bare stainless steel
No coating, so nothing to decompose and no secret recipe. It does release small amounts of nickel and
chromium, mostly into acidic food, and mostly when the pan is new — one study measured the fraction
of nickel leached falling from
5.10% on the first cook to 0.48% by the sixth.
How much that matters is genuinely contested: a second study using real pots rather than metal coupons
concluded 18/10 stainless is “safe for the majority of nickel-allergic subjects”,
and its figures are far lower. If you have a diagnosed nickel allergy this is worth knowing about;
otherwise food itself is the dominant source.
4. Cast iron
One material, no coating, and it does put iron into food — a lot, in acidic dishes. A Malawi
study measured bean relish gaining
147 µg of iron per gram
when cooked in an iron pot. Whether that is a benefit depends entirely on you. It is not the anaemia cure
it is sometimes sold as: the best-designed trial, 340 Cambodian women over 12 months, found
no haemoglobin difference at all between an iron ingot,
an iron supplement and nothing.
The honest summary
If you can cook it in stainless or cast iron, do — the argument ends there, and it costs less.
If you want non-stick, you are choosing between a well-studied fluoropolymer and a less-studied sol-gel
whose recipe is secret. Both are defensible. Neither is “clean”.
And buy from whoever tells you the most, not whoever promises the most. That is what the scores below
measure.